Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
